one shabby chick

Binding

I have 3 quilts right now that need binding.

Well, actually 2 now since I finished one last night.

Binding this one right now  - my customer wanted white binding and there's a lot of white in the quilt too so I'm terrified I'm going to get it dirty somehow!!

And this one is next - I can't wait to finish it!

I also have a long list of things I want to get done for the craft fair on May 5th:

*button ponytail holders

*big button bookmarks

*more typewriter ipad covers

* little skirts

*patchwork pencil cases

* camera/typewriter zip pouches

and I want to try some metal frame clutches too.

Not to mention all those quilts I have in-progress....lol!!

I wanted to mention that I have a Designer page over on Favecrafts.com. It was pretty funny trying to come up with something to write about myself.

And I'm also featured in an e-book that they recently released on Favequilts.com!

You can get it here - and it's FREE! Favequilts and Favecrafts have a TON of quilt ideas and crafty links - really great resources!

Oilcloth

I got an email while we were on vacation asking if I made oilcloth box bags for the shop.

I had been wanting to make some so this was the perfect motivation to sew some up.

I finally got around to making them this weekend and I even cut into my new Freshcut laminate.

They are approx. 8" long x 3.5" tall x 5.5" wide.

(the Echino ones are a little smaller)

They are $18.00 each plus $2.50 shipping.

I'll get them in the shop tomorrow probably (too rainy and dark today for pictures) but if anyone is interested in one,  send me an email and I'll reserve it for you.

I also finished up a custom ipad cover that a friend ordered for her sister's birthday.

The fabric is by Jay-Cyn designs.

And I got my first taste of granny squares after seeing Jeni's adorable mini here.

I have to say, I'm hooked - I love how they look! They are a little bit of work but the end product is SO cute!

Tutorial on Jolene's blog here.

Quilting up my pillow for the Pillow Swap now - have to send it out this week!

A few more things

The winner of the StudioCherie giveaway is #37.

Montse!

Congratulations! Email me your pattern of choice and I'll pass it along to Cherie.

Sewed up a couple more things for the trip:

A makeup bag - using this tutorial. (mine is a little bigger)

Some oilcloth bags using my tutorial here.

A book cover....

I saw this amazing list taker on Pinterest and loved her fabric choices. I couldn't find a book cover tutorial I liked so I just made up my own pattern.

I put the corner holders in for hardcovers and the long fabric sleeves for soft-covers.

As you can tell I LOVE this new Melody Miller typewriter fabric.

I also made a passport holder since we have 6 passports to keep track of.

Again, made up my own pattern - It didn't come out perfect but it's good enough to take on the trip.

And Hubby was in need of a new wallet.

He's been asking for a new one for a while. I think it was time.

Made it exactly the same as last time only I used interfacing instead of batting - makes it a bit thinner.

He got out all his "travel bags" so I could show take a picture of them all together.

Here's my purse all packed with handmade goodness....

Really hoping to do some posts from the road but we'll see how it goes...if not, you'll get a bunch of posts when I get back for sure!

I want to try and keep a journal of sorts on the iPad to help us document the trip. See you soon!!

Guitar strap tutorial

As I was making these, I thought they would be a perfect fit for a tutorial.

They aren't hard to make - just take a little time and lots of straight-line sewing.

Materials needed:

1/2 yard fabric

1/2 yard interfacing or fusible fleece (I used interfacing for mine - Pellon Decor Bond)

cheap guitar strap (for all the hardware - I buy the Ernie Ball ones like this)

You'll have to cut the strap to get the pieces off and unpick the thread on the leather end piece so you can attach it to your end.

 

Here we go:

Take your fabric and cut two pieces 8" x width of fabric.

Cut two 8" x width of interfacing pieces as well.

Sew your two fabric strips together with 1/4" seam to form one long strip.

Trim fabric strip to 64" long (I just keep it in folded in half and cut it at 32")

Iron interfacing onto wrong side of fabric.

You can overlap your pieces a little where you join the two interfacing pieces together - it's not noticeable when the strap is done. Trim off any excess interfacing at end.

Iron in half, wrong sides together.

Open and fold in both sides again, ironing to form crease.

Fold in half once more so you now have a 2" wide strap. Iron and pin along the edge every 3-4".

Using your walking foot, sew 1/4" lines down the entire strap. Repeat until you go across entire width of strap.

I like to start on one edge and then do the other edge and work my way towards the middle so it is even.

Trim ends.

Take your strap hardware and weave strap through the buckle.

Sew along edge using a zig zag stitch. Repeat a few times to make sure it is secure.

Now thread the sliding leather end onto the strap. You'll have to check and make sure your placement is right so that everything is facing the right way when you sew up the last end.

It's not a big deal but it is a little harder to adjust everything when you have the end already sewn on.

After you put the sliding end on, thread your unfinished fabric end back through the buckle.

Zig-zag stitch a few times across the  fabric end (like a satin stitch - just to finish the end).

Now sew the remaining leather piece on to the strap end. It looks nice if you use black thread to finish it. You may want to use a thicker needle but it works just fine with a regular one too. I go over it a few times to secure it in place.

Sew on a label and you are done!

You can make scrappy ones too - just sew big scraps together and trim to 8" x 64". It takes a little longer but looks super cool!

As always, if you make anything with my tutorials, you can add them to my Flickr group here.

Oilcloth Box Bag

There are two different types of "oilcloth" out there right now...

Oilcloth - which is a bit thicker and sturdier and laminated on both sides.

Laminated cotton - thinner and feels like regular cotton on the back.

Either fabric will work fine for this tutorial - I am using the laminated cotton in my pictures. The oilcloth would help the box bag keep it's shape a bit more but since you will be putting things in it, it's not that big of a deal.

Materials needed:

Oilcloth (or laminated cotton)

Zipper (length depends on how long your rectangle is)

Let's get started:

You need to decided how big you want your box bag. For this tutorial I used a rectangle that was 12" x 18".

My finished box bag is approx. 3.5" tall x 5" wide x 8" long.

I also used a 14" zipper.

Cut your oilcloth to your desired size - you will want a rectangle.

Take your zipper and place your oilcloth (the shorter measurement) right side down on top of your zipper. 

Sew along edge as shown.

* I used my walking foot for the whole project - if you want to use your zipper foot, you will need to put a piece of painter's tape on the bottom so it doesn't stick to the oilcloth - I've found the walking foot is perfect for this and you can just move your needle to the desired position.

Turn oilcloth over and using your finger, crease oilcloth down at seam.

Topstitch.

Place remaining edge of oilcloth face down on the other side of the zipper. Sew along edge as shown.

Turn oilcloth right sides out and use your finger to crease the seam. Open zipper and topstitch along other side.

Turn oilcloth wrong side out. You will have a tube at this point.

Open the zipper up about halfway and then lay the tube flat, with the zipper in the middle. You want to have the oilcloth right sides together.

You are going to sew the two open ends closed using a 1/2" seam allowance.

I like to stitch the line a few times for extra stability especially where the zipper is.

Trim all threads and a little of the seam allowance (I used pinking shears).

Repeat on other side.

Now you will take your rectangle and mark a little square in each corner.

This is going to "box" your bag. Depending on the size of your rectangle, you may want a smaller square. I used a 1.5" square for each of my corners.

Draw the square using a ruler and pencil and then use your scissors to cut out each corner.

Repeat for all four corners.

Take your cut corners and sandwich them together so they are flat and line up. You may have to fiddle with it a little so they line up together.

Hold them flat with your fingers - you can use a pin of you want to but it will leave a hole in the oilcloth so I just did one at a time and held them closed with my finger.

Sew along each edge using a 1/4" seam allowance. Trim threads and a little of the seam allowance.

Repeat on all 4 corners.

Turn right side out, push corners out to make your box shape and you are done!

If you make one, please feel free to add it to my Fickr group!

Stroller Bar Cover tutorial

I guess that's what you call it? That's what I'm calling it anyway.

So here it is - it's really simple. I think you should measure your stroller handle first just to make sure you don't need to make it shorter and/or wider (or skinnier). I made this one based on a Bob jogging stroller and it is a little loose (you just don't want to make it too tight and then you can't get it on!)

Materials needed:

1/2 yard of fabric

8.5" x 26.5" piece of batting (you could also use fleece)

6 sets of snaps (I use these - size 16)

Construction:

Cut two pieces of fabric measuring 8.5" x 27" long (again - check your stroller first and determine your measurements from there).

Lay your fabrics right sides together and lay batting on top of fabrics.

When you lay the batting on top of the fabrics, your fabric will be 1/2" longer at the top edge - this is correct. You don't want to have too many layers when you fold your fabric in to close it.

Sew along three edges with a 1/2" seam, leaving top open.

Turn right sides out and iron all edges flat.

Fold fabric in at the open edge and iron. Pin opening closed and then sew around all 4 edges using a 1/4" seam.

Now you'll have one long piece.

You will place one snap at each end and then place snaps at 5" intervals across the whole cover.

Make sure you place them so that when the handle bar cover closes, they snap together (it's easy to put them wrong, not that I would know anything about that - ha ha!).

You're done - I told you it was easy! Now go get your stroller and snap on the new cover!

Oh Baby

I thought I'd do a little tutorial using the Alpha Baby die from the Go! Baby Fabric Cutter.

Supplies:

1 yard fabric for front of quilt

1 yard fabric for back of quilt

piece of batting 40" x 45"

4 different pieces of fabric scraps approx. 5" x 5"

4 pieces of double-sided fusible web (I prefer Heat-n-bond or Steam-a-Seam 2) - approx. 5" x 5"

Binding fabric - 10" x width of fabric

Instructions:

Take your 4 pieces of fabric scraps and iron the fusible webbing to the wrong side of each piece.

Place your fabrics wrong side up (paper side up) on your Alpha Baby die. You will want to put 2 pieces over the "B" and one piece each on the "A" and "Y" so you can spell "BABY" with your pieces.

Run the fabric through your Go! Baby Fabric Cutter.

Put your pieces to the side until after you are done quilting.

Take your (2) one yard pieces of fabric and iron well. Trim off the selvedge edges from each side. You will be making a whole cloth quilt.

I spray basted my quilt using this method but you can choose to pin it instead.

Take your basted quilt and quilt according to your preference. I chose to do a swirly pattern across the entire quilt.

Trim off the extra batting from each side.

Take your letters and arrange them on the quilt. You can place them anywhere you want to. I placed mine in the lower righthand corner.

Remove the paper backing and iron each letter onto the quilt. Using a zig zag stitch, straight stitch, or blanket stitch, sew around each letter.

* I chose to use a light thread but you can always use a contrasting thread if you want the letters to stand out more.

Take your 10" piece of fabric and cut four (4) 2.5" strips. Sew them together to form one long strip for your binding. Attach your binding to your quilt.

You can chose to machine-stitch or hand-sew your binding...this tutorial is excellent.

And you are done - a cute baby quilt that is quick, easy and a great present!

Scrappy Pouch tutorial

This a great way to use up both batting and fabric scraps.

** You can easily make more than one at a time if you use longer strips (say 11" or longer) and then just trim them down to 5" wide pieces.

 

Materials needed:

Scraps of fabric at least 1" x 6" (I used varying widths - between 1" and 3" is good)

5" x 12" piece of batting

5" x 12" fabric for lining

Snap set (I use these)

 

Making your pouch:

Take all your scrap pieces and sew them together until you have a piece that is approx. 6" x 13" (you want it a little longer/wider so you can trim it evenly).

Trim down to 5" x 12".

** I used my walking foot after this point for the rest of the process...just helps feed everything better.

Lay your trimmed top onto your piece of batting and quilt with 1/2" lines lengthwise across the entire piece. (I didn't pin it since it doesn't really shift but you can if you want to)

Trim again to 5" x 12" if you need to. Place your quilted piece and lining piece right sides together and pin along edges. You want to leave a 2" opening for turning.

Sew along all edges (except for your opening). Sew a few re-enforcement stitches at the start and stop of your opening so that it doesn not tear your stitching when you turn your pouch right-side out.

Trim corner edges and turn pouch right sides out, carefully pushing corners out using a turning tool or chopstick.

Iron on both sides. Tuck in edge pieces of opening, iron and pin.

Topstitch along entire top piece using a very small seam allowance, making sure to sew opening shut securely.

Fold up bottom about 4" (or however big you want your pouch to be). Pin on each side, taking care to match up the topstitching on the front and back.

Sew along topstitching line on each side, re-enforcing the top edge well. I went over it a couple times just to make sure it is sewn securely.

Add your snap to the top flap and outside front area of your pouch and you are done!

You can always make it bigger and use it for your phone or even a small camera. Or they make great gift card holders for presents!

And now for the giveaway...

Leave a comment on this post and you'll win this pouch:

as well as supplies (batting, scraps and lining) to make one too!

I'll leave the comments open until Friday!

** Edited {4/8/11} to add - Giveaway is now closed!

An iPod case (for your arm)

OK here's my tutorial for an iPod case that you wear on your arm - I sewed one up a couple years ago since I was in the store with my cheapo brother and was looking at arm band cases and my brother told me - just make one. So I did.

Here's the first one I made - I sewed it up super fast and used fold-over elastic...

The fold over elastic is too loose (not a tight enough elastic) and I was constantly pulling it back up my arm.

I decided a couple weeks ago to make a new one and figured I'd make a tutorial for all of you too.

* The measurements provided are for an iPod touch but you can alter them for any other type of iPod or MP3 player....

iPod Arm Band Case

Materials needed:

One piece of material that is 4.5" x 11" (for lining)

Scraps (or strips of fabric) that are at least 4.5" long

Batting - one piece that is 4.5" x 11"

Elastic - I used boxer elastic since it's a bit softer than the standard white elastic - just search on Ebay and you can find some.

Assembly:

Sew scraps/strips together until you have a piece that measures approx. 4.5" x 11".

Trim to 4.5" x 11".

Different color scheme:

To quilt your case, take your patchwork front and place it on top of your batting piece. (You can also choose to not quilt your front piece and leave it plain)

You can quilt it anyway you like - I just did 1/4" lines across the whole thing using my walking foot.

Now take your quilted piece and your lining and line them up right sides together.

If you want to add a closure to your case, get a piece of elastic (I used a ponytail holder) and pin it at the top of your case.

Pin along all edges, leaving a 2" opening in one side for turning.

Sew along all edges with a 1/4" seam allowance, remembering to leave 2" opening for turning.

(ignore the fact that I sewed over my pins!)

Trim edges to reduce bulk and trim corners, being careful not to cut into your stitches.

Trim away batting at opening - makes it easier to sew the seam shut.

Turn right sides out and iron. Push opening edges inside and iron so seam is flush - pin opening closed.

Fold case so that lining is right sides together, making sure to line up sides and top edges.

For your elastic measurement you will need to measure your arm's circumference. Take this measurement and divide it in half and then add 2.5".

* Example - your arm measures 15". Take 15 and divide by 2 = 7.5. Add 2.5" and your elastic measurement will be 10".

You can either use two skinnier pieces of elastic or one wider piece.

Cut your elastic piece(s).

Take your elastic piece and place one edge inside your folded case along one of the sides.

(I just eyeballed it and placed it in the center of my case - you can place it higher or lower to your liking).

Pin. Repeat on opposite side, looping elastic around the back of the case.

Pin extra elastic against back so it doesn't get caught as you sew up the sides.

Sew up both sides - I went over each side a couple times just to give it extra stability (I also stitched over the elastic section a few times more - just back and forth a couple times).

If you added an elastic closure, you can sew a button on to the front for your closure.

And you are done!

Slip that case on your arm and go for a walk/run.....or do what I do - sit down and start sewing!

Oh - and I started a Flikr group for my tutorials so if you make one (or an iPad cover), please add it to the Flikr group!

An iPad cover tutorial

My dad asked me if I could make him a cover/pouch for his iPad and so I thought I’d make up a little tutorial for it.

I tried to figure out how to save it as a pdf and upload it but I don't know if it's too big or what but it's not loading so you are getting it as a blog post instead.

* I used the measurements of his iPad with the black protective case he has on it – this cover fits the iPad without its case as well, just not as snugly.

Material list:

2” piece of Velcro

Fabric for outside pouch - you will need 2 pieces that are 10” x 12” (we will be cutting them down after we quilt them – I like to leave a little room for quilting shrinkage)

Fabric for fold-over flap – you will need two pieces of your outside fabric that are 5” x 5”

Fabric for lining – you will need 2 pieces that are 9.5” x 11.5”

Batting – you will need 2 pieces that are 10” x 12” for the outside pouch, 2 pieces that are 9.5” x 11.5” for the lining, and one piece that is 5” x 5” for the fold-over flap.

Lightweight to medium interfacing – 2 pieces that are 10” x 12”

Matching thread (I used an off-white for the whole thing)

1/4” seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

Fabrics:

I went with Ruby Star Rising’s Transistor Radio fabric and a matching Kona cotton.

You could also also use a patchwork block for the front and a printed fabric for the back.

Making your cover:

Cut out all your fabric pieces. If you are using a directional print as your outside fabric pay attention to which way the print is facing as you sew things together (especially the fold-over flap).

Iron your interfacing to the wrong side of both pieces of your outside fabric.

Take your batting pieces that are 10” x 12” and position them under your {interfaced} outside fabric pieces. Pin in a couple spots to ensure the fabric doesn’t slip.

Take your 5" x 5" batting and do the same with one of the pieces of your fold-over flap.

Using your walking foot (a regular foot would be fine – a walking foot just helps all layers glide through the machine more smoothly), quilt lines horizontally across the entire fabric piece.

I just started at one end of the fabric and sewed lines across the entire width using my walking foot as a guide for the next line.

Quilt both outside pieces as well as the one piece of the fold-over flap that you attached the batting to.

* You could do any type of quilting here – stippling, loops, diagonal quilting – I just chose to go with lines)

Trim quilted pieces to 9.5” x 11.5”.

Pin quilted fabric pieces right sides together (taking care if you are using a directional print to make sure it’s facing the right way) and sew along the two sides and bottom - re-enforcing the starting and ending points.

Leave top open.

Turn right sides out through top opening and use a chopstick (or a turning tool) to gently push out the corners.

Place one piece of your velcro about 2" from the bottom and in the center of your flap piece - the one that wasn't quilted.

Topstitch velcro in place.

Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along both sides and bottom, leaving top open. Turn right side out and use chopstick to gently push corners out.

Pin fold-over flap to the top edge of the quilted fabric pouch. You can choose either side to be the front at this point - Make sure flap is lined up with middle of the pouch. Baste/sew using a 1/4” seam allowance.

Place lining pieces right sides together. Take 9.5” x 11.5” batting pieces and place one on the top and one on the bottom of the lining pieces (creating a batting sandwich with the lining in the middle).

Sew along sides and bottom of sandwich BUT leave a 6”-7” opening along the bottom {for turning cover right side out when it is all sewn together}.

Do not turn lining right side out.

Place quilted fabric pouch inside your newly sewn lining pouch – right sides together.

(** there should be batting on the outside but the first time I made this I didn’t use batting in the lining and felt it wasn’t padded enough so I ripped it out and added batting but forgot to take a picture)

Match up side seams and pin and then pin along the top edge at regular intervals.

Sew along the top edge with your walking foot using a 1/2” seam allowance. Go slowly since you are going through lots of layers...you may want to go around twice for added stability.

Pull quilted pouch out through opening in lining bottom.

Turn pouch right sides out and sew up hole in lining bottom.

Push lining into outside pouch and iron along top opening.

Topstitch around the entire top opening.

Fold over your flap and decide how tight you want your pouch to close - mark where you want your velcro to be on the front of your pouch.

Topstitch velcro.

Inside view:

You’re done! Enjoy your new iPad cover!

* I changed it just a little so that you don't sew your second piece of velcro until the very end - this seems to help you line it up better and make sure the closure is secure.

**Edited to add:

You can also forgo the flap altogether and just use an elastic band and a button as a closure like I've done in this picture.

You add the elastic in when you are sewing the lining and outside fabrics together and then sew a button on the front.